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December 2009 Newsletter

Whistle - Winter 2009
- December 10, 2009

VOLUME 47, ISSUE III THE WHISTLE

President’s Message

This last September Ann & I went to Cody, Wyoming. The Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone sounded intriguing and we hadn’t been in that part of the country. On the way we spent four days at Silver Creek, an enjoyable and unique experience. Casting a #20 comparadun on 18’ leaders is so completely different from summer steelhead fishing, especially since I’m from the “heave it and mend” school of flycasting. Yellowstone Park was beautiful but still crowded (a half-mile traffic jam for one buffalo!?!). Cody was nice, pretty country and a great museum, and the canyon of the Clark’s Fork where it empties out onto the plains is awesome in the literal sense of the word. As beautiful as these sites were, about every hour or so I’d catch myself thinking “It’s September on the North Umpqua.”

Traveling to fish other places is always fun, and occasionally one finds good fishing too, but no place else quite stacks up our River. We have a real opportunity coming up next year with ODFW’s plans to develop a management plan for coastal winter steelhead. This will be critical for the long term health of the fishery, providing management direction for years to come on a broad range of issues. Current management decisions are now based primarily on the Winchester Dam counts and lack comprehensive management standards or strategies. We will be asking for support from all of you to help reach a plan which protects and enhances our wild fish populations.

The board has also embarked on a Strategic Planning project, aiming to make Steamboaters stronger, more efficient, and identifying projects that we would like to accomplish rather than being so often in a reactive mode. Not a very exciting undertaking, but a necessity. The board deserves some recognition for this, as it has taken a lot of time and effort on the part of everyone involved.

You’ll also see in this issue a letter from “Nevada Bill” Ladner regarding fishing techniques.I appreciate Bill’s interest and his energy. We also received a letter from Lee Spencer, detailing his observations of numerous people fishing with weighted flies particularly in the Camp Water. We would like to hear from other members about their experiences and their views on this issue, or anything else that moves you.

Tight Lines,

Joe Ferguson

Freshwater Mussels in the North Umpqua River

By Jason Dunham

I have fished the North Umpqua River since the 1970s for summer steelhead, spending at least a few days on the river nearly every year for the past 35 years. While I return to the same places every year to try my luck, I am amazed at how many newplaces I find and catch fish. The river certainly holds its secrets, but they are often revealed for those willing to explore beyond the familiar. It was in this spirit that I decided to work on something I had always seen but never thought much about in the river: freshwater mussels.

What are freshwater mussels? Often referred to as freshwater “clams,” freshwater mussels represent a distinct lineage of species that is uniquely adapted to living in the company of fish. In fact they can’t live without them. Mussels can’t swim, but fish can. Somehow over millennia mussels have evolved to parasitize the gills of fish during their nearly microscopic larval stage. These tiny seed-like larvae hitchhike on fish gills for several weeks to months as they develop into tiny juvenile mussels. These juveniles drop off of their fish host and then burrow into the substrate where eventually, if they survive, they grow into adults of about 4-6” long. To survive to adulthood from the larval stage is about like winning the lottery. Not very likely. Adult mussels are surprisingly long-lived, however, and some species in Europe have been documented to be nearly 200 years old.

In the North Umpqua we have abundant populations of western pearlshell mussels (Margaritifera falcata). These pearlshells are close relatives of the long-lived pearl mussels of Europe. Pearl mussels in Europe are in serious decline, where human harvest and degraded river ecosystems pose serious threats. In North America, mussels are the most endangered group of organisms in freshwaters. Some researchers have estimated their rate of extinction to be over five times higher than groups of birds or mammals. Thus far in the Pacific Northwest, mussels are still abundant and thriving in many locations. We can take this as a comfort, but changes in the future may prove challenging.

One change that is already in progress is our climate. This is a process that is influenced by humans and natural processes. In freshwater, there is no organism that has seen more climate change than a mussel. Nothing lives nearly as long. This is an aspect of mussels that interested me greatly from a research perspective. Because the North Umpqua has such abundant populations of mussels, we have been able to collect some for research on their responses to past climate change. We have collected samples from lower Steamboat Creek and from the main North Umpqua at Whistler’s Bend County Park.

The “we” in this work includes Dr. Bryan Black at Oregon State University. Bryan is trained as a Dendrochronologist – a scientist who specializes in the analysis of tree rings. 

When I learned of Bryan’s work adapting tree-ring methods to long-lived rockfish and geoduck clams, I contacted him about the possibility of working on mussels. Luckily he was very interested and he has been applying his methods to understanding long-term patterns in growth of mussels by analyzing shell rings, much like analysis of tree-rings.

We have completed our preliminary analysis of mussels in Steamboat Creek and found some very old specimens, dating back to the times when I first began fishing the river in the 1970s. These mussels show varied responses to both changes in water temperature and stream flows in Steamboat Creek. In years with warmer temperatures, mussels grow faster. In years with higher flows, mussels grow more slowly. It is stream flow that seems to have the strongest influence on these mussels. One look at the twisted alder trees on the banks of Steamboat Creek might be enough to provide a convincing view of the river’s power. In comparison with other populations from the Willamette River, we find a common response of growth to stream flows in some cases, but in others, the response seems to be site-specific. These are mussels that have experienced similar climates in the past, but show very different responses. This was a very interesting finding, and we’re trying to learn more about why.

What does this mean for rivers, fish, and climate change? Mussels are the only species in our rivers that can tell a story about climate change from a living organism’s point of view. What they tell us is that responses to climate change are complex and may depend on local conditions. This means we might not expect species to respond the same way across different locations to climate change. Climate is clearly important, but it is not the whole story. To better understand what is going on, we have collected mussels from locations across the Pacific Northwest to better resolve these patterns. We have mussels collected from western Oregon at near sea level east to central Idaho’s Sawtooth Valley, well above 6,000 feet in elevation. The climates and climate histories in these places should provide a broad range of conditions that will help us learn more about what we’ve learned from just a handful of populations in Oregon.

Perhaps the most important thing I’ve learned in this work is a great appreciation for a species that I knew or cared little about until just a few years ago. Imagine the life cycle of a mussel, from microscopic larva to decades-old adult. It’s an improbable existence to be sure. Anything that can survive for more than 30 years on the bottom of a river has to command respect. The next time you find a mussel shell on the bank, take a look at the shell and see if you can count the rings, or figure out why it died. Maybe look in the water and see if you can find them buried among the sand and rocks. Once in a while you might even catch one (they can attach to flies and lures). Was it trying to attach its larvae to your hook? There’s a lot more to a freshwater mussel than meets the eye. In both my professional and personal experience freshwater mussels in the North Umpqua are yet another unexpected find in a river that never ceases to teach new lessons.

If you want to learn more about freshwater mussels, here are a few links:The Pacific Northwest Native Freshwater Mussel Working Group: http://www.fws.gov/columbiariver/musselwg.htm

The Unio Gallery with incredible videos of mussels from the Midwest: http://unionid.missouristate.edu/

Oregon Field Guide’s story on mussels in Steamboat Creek: http://www.opb.org/programs/ofg/segments/view/1594?q=mussel

Jason Dunham is an Aquatic Ecologist with the U.S. Geological Survey’s Forest and Rangeland Ecosystem Science Center in Corvallis, Oregon. He is also a courtesy graduate faculty in Fisheries and Wildlife at Oregon State University. In addition to freshwater mussels, his lab is conducting research on salmon, trout, steelhead and other fishes across the Pacific Northwest.

A Note from Membership: Membership Renewals for 2010 will be coming by mail to you soon. Your support is essential to the future success of this club. Please send in dues at your earliest possible convenience and encourage others you know to do the same. Membership applications are available through any board member or email steamboaters@hotmail.com. Thanks for your continuing support!

Club News & Notes:

Umpqua Winter Steelhead Management Update

Since regulations were adopted prohibiting harvest of wild winter steelhead in the Umpqua basin, there have been people working to either reinstate harvest of wild fish or add a hatchery run. They argue that the wild run, particularly on the North Umpqua, is healthy and should support some level of harvest. Some ODFW staff agree, and a new management model was to be unveiled this fall which would allow harvest in some form. However, after internal discussion, that plan was scrapped in favor of developing a conservation plan for coastal winter steelhead which will undoubtedly include provisions for harvest of wild steelhead.

ODFW’s Native Fish Conservation Policy requires development of conservation plans by Species Management Unit (SMU). North Umpqua winter steelhead are considered part of the Coastal Winter Steelhead SMU, which extends from the Necanicum in the north to the Sixes in the south. Development of these plans has been prioritized by the health of the SMU; however another priority factor is public interest and that apparently moved the Coastal SMU to the top.

On one hand it’s good to see the development of an actual management plan for the River’s winter steelhead; on the other, it’s disconcerting to see so much energy within the department to pursue harvest of wild Umpqua steelhead.

We plan to develop some proposals to be considered as part of this process, and are meeting with other groups to recommend a conservation representative for the public “Stakeholders Team.” There will be more details, and opportunities for members to be involved, as we learn more from ODFW.

WOPR Update

Last fall the Obama administration withdrew the decisions approving BLM’s Western Oregon Plan Revision, effectively cancelling WOPR. On September 8, a coalition of timber interests filed suit in Washington, DC challenging the administrations authority to take that action, and asking that WOPR be reinstated.

The Western Environmental Law Center, the attorneys for OUR joint appeal with Pacific Rivers and McKenzie Flyfishers, has requested intervener status for PRC and a change in venue to one of the federal district courts in the states affected by the Northwest Forest Plan. No decision has been made on these motions yet.

Williams Creek Bridge Building Update

ODOT has announced plans to begin construction next spring on a new bridge over Williams Creek, replacing the existing box culvert under the highway. The culvert with concrete baffles in the bottom was viewed as an impediment to the creek both for spawning fish and for juveniles seeking refuge from high muddy winter flows.

The plan is to build the bridge one half at a time. Traffic will be limited to a single lane, with traffic lights similar to the situation when a bridge was constructed at Honey Creek. The Williams Creek campground, which was already closed due to fire damage, will remain closed until spring 2011.

BLM’s Tioga Bridge and Parking Lot Project

On September 22 the BLM issued a decision approving the first phase (geotechnical drilling) of the Tioga Bridge/Susan Creek Trail project despite numerous comments pointing out significant flaws in the overall project. Two weeks later, following appeals filed by Umpqua Watersheds, the Native Fish Society, and Cascadia Wildlands, the BLM requested a voluntary remand of the decision in order to look at other alternatives. However,as of December 1st, it appears that BLM will not make significant changes to their proposal. The project is to receive majority funding from ODOT, and changes could jeopardize that funding (the reason no other alternatives were examined). A decision to proceed with the entire project is expected soon.

The Wild & Scenic Plan calls for a “suspension foot bridge” near Susan Creek, and the board supported the concept of additional access to the south side River trail. While we did not appeal the first phase decision, the board will revisit the question if and when the final decision notice is published.

The proposed project includes a new bridge atop the existing abutments; a 3/4 mile trail from the day-use parking lot to the abutments, with a 90’ bridge across Susan Creek; new roads to each side of Susan Creek for exploratory drilling (the approved phase); and 15,000 square foot paved loop with parking for four raft trailers at the east end of the existing picnic area parking lot.

Steamboaters previously met twice with the BLM, submitted a number of suggestions concerns, and submitted five pages of comments on the EA. The issues remained unchanged:

1. The project would have a huge impact on one of the only healthy riparian areas along the entire north side of the River.

2. The BLM looked at no other alternatives for providing access to the trail on the south side of the River.

3. The justification included estimates of 8,000 people/year using the trail to the bridge, 13,000 people/year using the bridge, and 9,450 people/year hiking the trail segment down to Swiftwater Bridge. No methodology or supporting statistics were presented.

4. There was no estimate of an existing problem or potential problem with parking for rafters which would justify the parking loop.

5. There were no plans for upgrading the restrooms at the picnic area to handle existing use, let alone any increase.

6. There are insufficient funds to maintain the existing trail system.

7. Taking horses across at this point would create a sanitation problem and would be very unsafe next to such a busy highway – an accident waiting to happen. 

New Members

Please welcome the newest members of Steamboaters:

Bob Schulz, Roseburg OR

Bruce Carl, Folsom CA

Sara Erickson, Mount Shasta CA

Linda McNamara, Roseburg OR

Michael Swanson, North Bend OR

Fred David MD, Anderson CA

Thank you all for your support and welcome to Steamboaters! New members are what help keep Steamboaters going—please encourage others you know to join and help us protect and preserve this majestic river we all love. Email steamboaters@hotmail.com for membership applications.

New ODFW District Biologist

Tim Walters was appointed in September as the new Umpqua Basin fish biologist. Tim comes to the North Umpqua having spent the last 12 years as the assistant DB in the Burns/Hines office of ODFW.

Prior to that, he worked with ODFW in steelhead management in the Grande Ronde watershed.

Fly Tyer’s Corner by Joe Howell

Reprinted from 1974 issue of The Whistle

Civet Cat

History: The Civet Cat was originally designed for winter steelhead about three years ago by Dale Greenley of Roseburg. It was named by Jeannie Moore after Dale had hooked his first winter fish on it. It has since accounted for a number of fish, both winter and summer steelhead.

Civet Cat

Hook – 1197 or 1206 Eagle Claw fly hook, size 4 and 2

Thread – Black.

Tail – Black and white barred wood duck flank.

Body – Large black chenille.

Ribbing – Large oval silver tinsel. Gold is also used.

Hackle – Speckled guinea fowl feather tied spider style.

Wing – Black bear hair.

A Blast from the Past: 40 Years Ago in The Whistle

Steamboaters were announced as the third annual recipient of the Federation of Fly Fishers “McKenzie Cup”, given to the organization’s most outstanding member club. The award, an 18”x20” pastel painting of two trout by Tommy Brayshaw, was given based on the production of the film Pass Creek. The selection of Steamboaters for this award was a unanimous decision by the board and officers of FFF. Frank Moore was presented the Governor’s Conservationist of the Year award for his efforts in showing the film around the state, generating support for changes to riparian area timber harvest practices which led to the adoption of Oregon’s Forest Practices Act.

North Umpqua Chronicle: The Lunker at Lower Archie

By Pat McRae

Proof that steelhead can learn?

For what seems like weeks now, there has been a huge fish holding in Lower Archie. With binoculars you can see it if you know where to look, gently swaying to and fro in its holding lie. I have hooked an awful lot of fish in that lie and so when I sneak carefully down the bank I am confident that I will soon have this big ole honker on the line. Hoo boy!!

I crouch low on the bank so he won’t see me and the same single-hand spey cast I always do here and run the fly down through the holding lie, waiting for that violent grab. NOTHING!

Six, seven, eight more casts…still nothing. What the hell?

When I climb back up the bank and look in, he is gone. Oh well, maybe we’ll meet somewhere on up the river.

The next day on my way up the river I stop to look and there he is, holding in the same lie. I sneak down the bank again and the result is the same. This happens every time I go upriver for the next several days.

Then my long time friend, Jim Stanton, comes down from Eastern Oregon to fish for a few days and we stop at Lower Archie.

The lunker is there again. This time I watch while Jim gives it a shot. First cast the fish quietly disappears. With binoculars I search all over the pool and finally see it over on the far side under the current wrinkle and it is totally unresponsive. By the time Jim has climbed up the bank the big boy is back in his lie, perfectly comfortable. This is repeated every time we stop there for the rest of the week.

Then it comes to us…Oh my gawd, this fish is a learner! It has apparently learned the secret…if it doesn’t go chasing those flashy things that come swinging by it can stay safely in the pool as long as it wants.

Holy mackerel, hope it hasn’t learned to communicate that to others!

Pat McRae’s recently published book “The North Umpqua Chronicles” is available for purchase at The Blue Heron Fly Shop, Steamboat Inn, The Caddis Fly Shop, and Angler’s Book Supply.

Transition to Spey: Less Work and More Fun

By Steve Evans

About ten Octobers ago a group of us steelhead type fishermen took a trip down the Grande Ronde River in NE Oregon. We launched rafts at the little settlement of Minam and drifted, camped and fished for the next 5 days using a local outfitter. The issue of spey rods came up during the week as John the outfitter was a proponent of this style of fly fishing and he wanted to show somebody all about it. I was skeptical, thinking why spend all that time and money when I can already fish with my nine and ten foot rods just fine. At the time I had never even picked up a spey rod and did not know a soul who had ever used one. We didn't get around to trying it out.

A few seasons later I started developing some shoulder pain after a long season of ten-hour days on the North Umpqua. In fact, by the end of the season five years ago I was holed up at the Dogwood in the dying cockroach position (learned that one in the army) wishing I had some Canadian style painkiller real bad. My shoulder was in bad shape. I couldn't sleep and I couldn't fish. After talking with Dr. Butters (bone man) later that week in Eugene about my shoulder and what I perceived as the horrors of recovery after surgery for a torn rotator cuff. My next stop was several sessions of physical therapy and that did help a great deal over the winter. I also made the decision to revisit the spey rod issue the next season. I would have to bite the bullet if I was going to continue to fish without the surgery and lighten the load on my shoulder. To quit fishing was out of the question.

Next year will now be my fifth using a spey rod. I went through all the doubts and ignorance of a beginner, but I can say that I have had a ball learning about the rod (rods actually: I now have two of them). They really are a phenomenal tool and are especially fun on the North Umpqua where you have ample time to practice and learn during those ten to twelve hour waits between hookups, which can sometimes turn into days. I will say that I can cover water that I couldn't reach before, whether there are fish there or not (usually not). They are quite effective throwing bushy dries and skaters on shooting heads when the wind isn't blowing too hard. A good reason to fish the mornings, as afternoons can be blustery to say the least. And the roll casting and mending is a real blessing when against the brush. The energy expended using a spey rod seems about half what is used with a one handed rod. I've talked to other geezers about my age concerning shoulders since my experience, and it seems if you have spent thirty plus years on the river throwing flies, chances are you have had the opportunity to conjure up some shoulder problems. I will say that if pain is a factor, the lighter you go, the less stress. I am down to a five weight rod now (6 1/8 oz.) and that really helps at the end of the day.

The new shooting head lines handle well on these rods and fancy tapered leaders of all weights are available. I no longer need to tie my own with all those knots (which I did for years). I also went through a summer of experimentation in 2008 with various tippets. I had used 8 lb. Maxima Chameleon for over 30 years and had never really had a problem with it but figured with all this new material out that maybe I was missing something. I thought maybe I should go smaller. So I tried various fluorocarbon tippets as well as mono of various brands. It was either too soft or too brittle and just not strong enough when it counted. As it turned out all I really missed was landing about half my fish that summer. I not only broke fish off on the take but, if hung on a rock that stuff would pop with damn little pull. I like a leader I can bend my hook with if hung up. Our Kispiox guide last year also recommended Maxima, and those are the biggest, meanest and nastiest steelhead in the world. So I went to the five-weight and back to Maxima and never broke a fish off all this summer. It's good to have confidence in your tippets. The slightly larger diameter of Maxima doesn't seem to bother the fish, even on the surface. I would also suggest using a loop knot on your fly, they allow the fly to move better and are strong, too.

Fishing with Frank Moore and Pat “Fish Bum” McRae

by Matt Stansberry

Adapted from story posted October 7th 2009 on Oregon Fly Fishing Blog; www.oregonflyfishingblog.com

Last week I had the chance to fish with Frank Moore and Pat McRae on the North Umpqua for summer steelhead. I drove down to meet them at lunchtime and fished the second half of one of the first rainy fall days of the year. As the three of us piled into Frank’s little VW (which has over 400,000 miles on it), I was nervous about the rain spiking the water level, but Frank assured me it would take more than a little rain to affect the North Umpqua after a dry summer. We wadered up at the camp water, and headed to the first hole of the day where Frank showed me how to skate a fly across the current, and how to cast 100 feet with a single handed rod. Not that I replicated either of those things with much success. It was a learning experience, obviously fishing with Frank and Pat would be, but the takeaways were lifechanging. That is, if you consider changing some of your long-worn ideas about fishing as shaking the philosophical, moral core of your being.

It changed my perspective. This river that seemed so intimidating, treacherous, and devoid of interested fish, suddenly became manageable. Eventually I was pushing out 80-foot sloppy loops, landing the fly near where I was aiming — and the North Umpqua started to seem like a small stream. A small stream full of huge summer steelhead. I got my first grab on the North Umpqua on that trip, and watched another steelhead come up and take a swipe at my green butt skunk. I’m pretty sure Frank has some of these fish trained. Pat, Frank and I spent the rest of the afternoon watching the North Umpqua’s giant spawning chinook, trying to roll-cast 100 feet, and hopping in and out of Frank’s rig, till dark.

Other writers, like Scott Richmond at Westfly, have written about Frank’s life and accomplishments, so instead of reinventing the wheel, here is one of Scott’s Q&A with Frank Moore and a write up on what we owe Frank for his advocacy for this river. I will say that Frank is one of the most entertaining guys I’ve ever fished with. Somehow he makes you feel like a better fisherman (while simultaneously making you look like a chump by comparison). And more confident. And he’s damn funny.

The summer steelhead season is still hot on the North Umpqua, and with the start of the October Caddis hatch, things should get really interesting for folks chasing steelhead on the surface. After my masters lesson with Frank and Pat, I’ll definitely make the trip again this fall, with a lot more confidence.

Matt won this trip at the Rivers of A Lost Coast benefit screening in Eugene in May. Rivers of A Lost Coast is now available on DVD and can be purchased at www.riversofalostcoast.com

A letter from Nevada Bill Ladner:

To fellow Fly fishers

The North Umpqua river is one of the few traditional rivers that we have come to love as steelheaders, the challenges, the swing, fish coming to dries, it’s the way steelhead fishing was meant to be. Not many rivers have fly only water.

Recently there has been a hatch of nymphers on the river that are skirting the law by using tarpon hooks, and the least amount of materials possible. Most of them favoring the trail side of the river (so they wouldn’t be noticed) until lately, now they are hitting the camp water later in the morning and afternoon when most of the ethical fishers have left so they won’t be noticed as much. I met a guy the other day as I was leavening the Motts he asked what fly I fished through the hole I show him a muddler I asked what he was going to fish and he showed me a tarpon hook with two rubber legs and a small piece of marabou I told him that was illegal he said “I know I’m pushing the envelop but there’s no added weight.” As if that wasn’t bad enough now we are seeing 8 and 9 foot spinning rods with bubbles and flies most of them weighted, fishing the fly water knowing that ODFW and the State Police are over taxed with other duties so they know they won’t be caught.

If these folks can’t live up to the intent of the law, maybe they should stop harassing these fish, (that are staging for high water so they can enter the tributaries to spawn) and fish below deadline where their tactics are legal. Or is it that its easy Pickens being as how these fish haven’t seen weighted flies yet. I’m stuck as to the solution of these immoral and unethical acts. Just ask yourself when was the last time you went to Station or the Motts and hooked six or seven fish. Maybe the State Police and ODFW need a lot of phone calls.

State ODFW 541-440-3353

Police Dispatch Services 541-440-3333

Its our River lets keep it out of the hands of poachers.

CHAIRPERSONS AND STANDING COMMITTEES

WHISTLE WILLIE UNRATH

MEMBERSHIP DICK BAUER

WEBSITE MANAGER PAT McRAE

FFF REPRENSENTATIVE DICK BAUER

HISTORIAN DALE GREENLEY

USFS / BLM CHARLIE SPOONER

STEAMBOATERS

P.O. BOX 41266

Eugene, OR

97404

Charter Member Club

Federation of Fly Fishers

Member—Oregon Trout &

Pacific Rivers Council

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

2008-2009

JOE FERGUSON, PRESIDENT

(541)747-4917 joeannferg@comcast.net

DALE GREENLEY, VICE PRESIDENT

(541) 863-6213 flyfisher@frontiernet.net

PAT McRAE, SECRETARY

(541)496-4222 fishbums1@centurytel.net

LEE LASHWAY, TREASURER

(541)953-4796 lee.lashway@gmail.com

STEVE EVANS

(541)687-2150 evans3002@comcast.net

CHUCK SCHNAUTZ

(541)496-0328 schnautz@centurytel.net

PETER TRONQUET

(541)774-9577 pjtronquet@aol.com

ASSOCIATE DIRECTORS

DICK BAUER

(541) 688-4980

FAX (541) 607-3763 umpquafly@cs.com

CHARLES SPOONER

(541)496-0493 riverreach@centurytel.net

LEN VOLLAND

(541)673-2246 Lenv@pcez.com

 

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